Monday, November 2, 2009

Tren a las Nubes




I did it! There wasn't much to it...buy the ticket and get on the train...but that alone took me some time to decide. For once you get on the train, you are committed to a 15 hour train ride. It is a 434km. round trip. Travelling at a pace of 35km per hour.
We left the Valley of Lerma at a altitude of 1187meters and the turnaround point was "El Portal de Los Andes" at 4200 meters above sea level. Think it is higher than Machu Picchu, in Peru.

The rail construction began in 1921 an was completed in 1948. It took 1300 workers to get the job done. It was the brainchild of an American engineer named Richard Maury.

We travelled in one of the highest railways in the world without rack-and-pinion. The rack-n-pinion system allows the train to climb mountains as they do in Peru and Bolivia.

The scenery allowed us to explore nature in all of its glory and see the pre Hispanic culture through the archaeological testimonies of the area.

We passed thru smalll villages with no running water nor electricity. Their homes nothing more than brick adobes and yet, as they would stop their doings to look at this modern train machine, they would smile to us and waive. Waive and smile with a warmth and sincerety not often seen in our modern cities. It sure makes you think and wonder...who is better off. We can not imagine living as many of our ancestors did and yet what did we gain with all our modern technologies and advances? Are we any happier, healthier?? ..sure makes you wonder and reassess what is important....if nothing else, it was a good reminder...

I thought I would of been afraid of being so high up but what got to me was the lack of oxygen. Made it just fine to the top, thanks to a few "coca leaves" ...seems they help with shortness of breath...I only took it for medicinal purposes haha...as instructed by our "train steward" ;) ...but once we started to descend...I had to go to the nurse and get my 15 minutes on the oxygen mask.
That made a big diference and I made it back only with a sheadache and a slight cold.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Out of Order


My Buenos Aires Pad


To know and love me :) ... is to know...that I'm not the most organized person, unlike my sister who loves to "excel" everything :) but, I like to think that I KNOW where everything is.
...so you won't be surprised that I'm just now getting around to writing and adding pictures of my beautiful Buenos Aires "departamento".

I found it on one of my many "google searches" and fell in love with it right then and there.
Luckily for me it was available. It is located in the City area called PALERMO, the garden district of Buenos Aires. It is next to the Botanical Gardens and the Zoo.The building is right across a private Jewish School, so security on the block is good. I'm on the 9th floor, out of 14 and we only have 14 apartments, one per floor. By BA standards it is a small building. It's customary that for EACH highrise building (regardless of size) to have at least one person in charge. This person is called an "encargado", caretaker. They usually get their own apartment in the building and are "on call" monday-friday. The one in my building is called Martin. Pretty sweet job I think...
Not sure what he does other than picks up the trash from each floor and stands by the door between 17:00-20:00...to great us & let us in..so we don't bother with the keys...but it's an extra level of security I guess...I did use his services yesterday since I was home sick...(keep it clean!)

I had a delivery of "sandwiches of miga" (little-look-a-like british tea sandwiches) ..and I was too sick/lazy to go downstairs to let them in..so I called Martin and told him to let them in for me...haha..Remember the show RHODA?....Martin is my CARL...

Life in BA is hectic, kinda luck New York. Everybody has a cell phone coming out of their ear, but they still enjoy the simple things in life...like lingering for hours drinking ONE itsy bitsy cup of espresso (this might also have to do with the ecomomy)...while chatting and smoking. Phillip Morris is still going strong in third World countries. :(
They still do NOT eat dinner until AFTER 9pm...restaurants barely open by 20:00 (8pm)...and then it is only for a handful of "gringos/as"...like me....:) Things don't start hopping until 22:00 hrs...and that is even during the work week...

ah...don't worry I won't get more Diva than that..

So back to my apartment...it is 592sq ft...TOTAL
It is a studio with a balcony and a full bath with a bidet of course!
The only thing missing is an oven, but what the heck...with all the food delivery options in town
I don't even miss it. The great thing that I liked right away, is that it has a bookcase partition between the living room area and the bedroom with a computer desk in the middle.
The bathroom is to the right of the kitchen...and the whole other side you dont' see is glass.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Salta..Wine Country



Day Tour to Cafayate//Salta's Wine Country
I was one of 11 tourist taking a Van tour of the Calchaqui Valley.
Left the hotel at 07:00 and returned at 18:30 (6:30pm)

It was a long but beautiful day. It helped that we had a great tour guide named Claudio and an even better driver Osvaldo. A good driver in Argentina is worth his price in gold!

The group consisted of 6 Argentinos, a couple from Pamplona, Spain, a couple from Germany (only ones that need it the English version) and me. Claudio spoke a mixed of British and Miami English...it was fun to listen to him, first in Spanish and then the English Version.

My favorite expression from him was when he would say..."..10 minutes mas y we stop for toilet break"...;)...I was just glad they had such things out here in the wild north of Argentina.

The Calchaqui Valley is very similar to the Grand Canyon, with the exception that we are DRIVING thru it instead of just looking at it!

This area is famous for the TORRENTES GRAPES...which produces a white wine...I liked it and plan on drinking more even though Red continues to be my favorite. This area is good for wine production because it is hot and dry during the day but the nights are mild.

We made several picture opportunity stops along the way. My favorite was when we spotted an old man and his Llama alongside the road..selling his ceramic pots. His name is Don Facundo and the Llama...well..just call her Donia...He cooks all pots in a dirt oven until it reaches a temperature of 1000 degrees...(he uses wood )...then it's a matter of letting it cool down.

We had "3 toilet breaks" plus lunch in the town of Cafayate. For lunch I had LOCRO. This is a corn base stew with meat, sausage, bacon and garbanzo beans. Muy rico!

Believe it or not...
I DID NOT care for their specialty desserts. They are too sweet and they hardly use any chocolate. It mostly revolves around HONEY. A typical dessert is a slice of cheese with a ton of honey or a spaghetti squash...that has been boiled ,shredded and then cooked with honey before stuffing it into an empanada shell...and then as if that's not sweet enough..they cover the shell with a sugar coating...

BUT...I did find an ice cream place in town. Their specialty is WINE ICE CREAM! Yeap!!! I hit the jackpot...;)....tried both the Cabernet and Torrontes Ice Cream..and ended getting a scoop of Torrontes..and Grapefruit ice cream...they weren't creamy..more like a gelato.

Here are the pictures...
http://picasaweb.google.com/argentineyankee/CafayateTour#

Salta


I Liked Salta! It is a 2hr flight from Buenos Aires...but a world apart!

It is located in the North Eastern part of Argentina. It is a province rich in Culture, Archeology and Nature. The locals, called Saltenios, are simple, hard working people, proud of their heritage and passionate about their history. It was not uncommon for me to come across a 3 or 4th generation Saltenio. My source of information,as in any city, the taxi driver :)

The city of Salta was founded in 1582. It is located in the Valle de Lerma. named after it's founder Don Hernando de Lerma. It's Spanish architecture separates them from all other Argentine Provinces. The colonial feel of the city continues to this day.

Iglesia(church) de San Francisco was completed in 1625 and in 1941 was declared a Historical Monument. I tried to go inside...but couldn't...it was "siesta" time...and yes! even the church doors close! There are many museums but I didnt get the chance to go..had it planned for Sunday..but then I caught a cold!

I did go to a Folklore dinner Show on my first night in town...Sat next to a couple from Vancouver, Canada. He was brave...he not only got up to dance when they asked for audience volunteers but also tried a stew dish made of LLAMA!!! ugh...I didn't know they ate Llama...
I could of had a Llama empanada..but I passed! Turns out that Llama is a meat with low cholesterol...and a strong flavor..so it has to be cooked in some sort of stew...for a long period of time...using wine as a tenderizer and then it's good to go...maybe next time...

Here are some pictures...

do http://picasaweb.google.com/argentineyankee/SALTA#slideshow/5397279165791922354

more coming....Enjoy!

Back to BA! :)

The trip to Salta was a memorable experience. Came back last night with a "cold", a few souvenirs and lots of pictures which I will be downloading soon!

But first, I'm going to add the link to the pictures from Colonia, Uruguay. This was a mandatory and very unexpected trip I had to take.

I knew coming into Argentina with a US Passport, I could stay no more than 90 days or I would need a visa...My stay is for 82 days, so I thought I was covered.

Luckily for me, my mom mentioned to check my passport stamp and see how many days entry they had written down. Turns out...I only had permission for 60days!!!
Why? Because I was BORN in Argentina...and they don't recognize the American citizenship...

So I HAD TO LEAVE THE COUNTRY..and re-enter in order to obtain a "new" 60 day extension...otherwise they would NOT have allowed me to leave...."they loooove me...;)

Don't ask me why??? This is the "Argentina logic" I DO NOT understand...

The good news: I got to visit Colonia, Uruguay...very picturesque, has kept their colonial roots as evident by the pictures you'll see. The store owners, restaurants and craftsman...all deal with
4 currencies: Uruguay money...(don't know what it is)...argentine pesos, euros and dollars...

ok...here's the link to the pictures...enjoy while I download the Salta pictures...!

http://picasaweb.google.com/argentineyankee/ColoniaUruguay#

PS: the countdown has began...returning home in less than a month :)

Thursday, October 22, 2009

SALTA Bound...

This morning I'm flying to the Northern Province of Salta.
Founded in 1582! It is 2 1/2 hour flight from Buenos Aires.

This will be my first visit so I'm excited!
On Saturday I will be taking a 15 hr TRAIN RIDE...Leaving at 7am and returning close to midnight...it is called TREN De Las NUBES...here's my favorite ...site:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhyxBxpJD50

Yes..I have some dramamine...just in case :)

Will take pictures....Wish me Luck!!!

More Buenos Aires Pictures

http://picasaweb.google.com/argentineyankee/BuenosAires#